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Old 07-28-2014, 03:01 PM   #1
tigersgotwood
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Default 03 Terminator

Picked up an 03 Red Fire Cobra Friday night. Car has 38k on the clock, originally came from Jacksonville FL. Has 2.6L Kenne Bell that made 19.2psi on the dyno. Car dyno was 600.92rwhp and 532.35rwtq. Have a bunch of things planned for this 4v.




Brought it home Friday night and spent all day Saturday trying to figure out the fuel gauge. Previous owner claimed the gauge worked for 200 miles after the dual fuel pumps were installed for the KB, but hadn't worked since. Having dropped the tank twice without finding a solution he wired a 100 ohm resistor between ground and return fuel sending unit lines to trick the gauge into thinking it had half a tank. Previous owner told me he thought the problem was a grounding issue of the tank with the tank straps/chasis

Took a millie ohm readings and got ~ 2-8 ohms between return/ground fuel sending lines (with the 100ohm resistor removed of course). Put the car up on the lift and dropped the tank



Having dropped the tank I found no kinked cables and proceeded to pull the pumps/float. The image below shows the main problem. You can see whoever wired the dual pumps used a connector (yellow-black). The casing eroded from the gasoline and the return line had come into contact with the aluminum causing a short. Simply genius. Also notice in this picture that the yellow cable (return) is spliced into a black line -> another genius decision since both the return and the ground are now black...



I tested the resistance of the float and had great results (~15 ohm empty ~150 ohms full). Put the tank back up into place and tested again... empty tank... loosened the straps and held the tank in place with a ratchet strap... full tank. Went back to the tank straps... empty tank. I was screaming and cussing like a sailor. It was at this point that I realized the tank was only ~3/4 full (for your curious people out there - i put the gas back in the tank AFTER installing back in place ahhaha - not about that lifting lift). Previously when I was testing the gauge it was reading either "under empty" or "chuck full". took a beer break, screamed some more, took another beer break and thought that maybe the circuit was tripping from high-rail to low rail (I work on automotive sensors and a large amount of our sensors will do just this).

Took resistance measurements from return to ground on the float side of the circuit -> got ~123 ohms (roughly 3/4 tank). Took resistance measurements from return to ground on the gauge side of the circuit -> got ~-1024 ohms.... was like WTF the current is going in the wrong direction! measured in the opposite direction and got a much more reasonable number (small positive #, but cant remember off the top of my head right now). This told me that the wiring was bass-ackwards (trying to flow up-stream = huge resistance). Remember earlier when I mentioned that inside the tank the guy wired a connector from a yellow to a black wire? Yea he wired it backwards. Plugged yellow-to-black and black-to-yellow -> 3/4 tank. Has been working since then, although I haven't been able to verify the needle move as the car is not yet registered.


Hoping to tackle a squeaky pulley/belt issue next -> suspicion is misalignment between tensioner and crank on the outer belt (8 rib setup)

Plenty of new things to come, just thought I'd start a thread since I have a new project to work on. Hopefully I'll make it to the show in Putnam CT in August to meet everyone
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03 Cobra - Red Fire- 38k
2.6L KB @19psi. 601rwhp 532rwtq
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Old 07-28-2014, 06:13 PM   #2
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Nice score man, always been a fan of the redfire. Sounds like you've got a great foundation to work off of, a few tweaks here and there to make it right and make it yours and you'll be good to go. Hopefully you make it out to the show
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:57 AM   #3
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Nice. Glad you figured that fuel gauge issue out. Its amazing how the simplist thing thats overlooked can cause such a mess
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1967 Ford Mustang
331 Cubic Inch Small Block
536 RWHP - 524 Ft. LBs
Vortech SQ trim, E-303 Cam, Genuine Viper T56 Transmission, 9" Rear, Ridetech PRO Airride Suspension
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Old 07-29-2014, 06:02 PM   #4
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Nice score. What else is done to it? Exhaust, intake, suspension......

What pumps are they, dual FPDM's or modified stock one?

I just did a dual FPDM harness for mine and twin GT pumps. I made a harness like the factory so I can just unplug the hat and not have all that extra wire still attached to the hat. Mine looks factory unless you know there is only supposed to be 1 connection at the tank.
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2.8 KB, all the supporting mods. 694 hp / 674 tq on corn and 611 hp/ 602 tq on 93
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Old 07-30-2014, 11:06 AM   #5
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Hey Whitesnake

Its a Fore Hat with dual FPDMs, BAP, and twin GT pumps. Yea the wiring outside the hat was completely different than inside the hat (colors didn't match and it was overall a mess). Fuel pump wiring was all over the place and a royal PITA when dropping the tank. Sounds like your harness is probably a really convenient idea. Have any pictures? I might consider if I ever drop the tank again.

Also its got a mac cat-back exhaust now with stock cats and h-pipe just until it passes inspection. Then Ill mess around with the no cats on the offroad -xpipe and MIL eliminators. I want to do headers but that will probably wait until I can do it at the same time as other mods.

Car has brembo front brake calipers w/ drilled and slotted rotors (not sure of the size of these yet). Im kind of a skeptic of brakes and I really need to drive the car to form my opinion - but either way I need the backs to match. Car also has KB boost a spark for variable intensity/duration, PPRV delete, CAI, 60# injectors, new fluidyne heat exchanger, evenflo cooling, irs billetflow brace, and 1" lowering. Bilstein shocks in the rear. Caster camber plates

Need to upgrade the clutch ASAP, any suggestions?

Car was tuned by Pete at Performance Dyno in Concord NH
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03 Cobra - Red Fire- 38k
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Old 07-30-2014, 01:27 PM   #6
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I like my Ram Powergrip HD clutch. Spec 3+ is a nice clutch too
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1967 Ford Mustang
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Vortech SQ trim, E-303 Cam, Genuine Viper T56 Transmission, 9" Rear, Ridetech PRO Airride Suspension
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:06 PM   #7
03' whitesnake
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Nice. Glad you got it figured out.

My plug and play dual fpdm harness.




Heres my dual fpdm harness before installing it in the car.



Modified stock hat....you can see the wires here.



Here it is under the car....



And a shot of the connector I used for the power to the pumps. 2 connections and the tank can come right out. Very clean and easy to do.




I just did the 26 spline input shaft upgrade and spec 3+. It is very close to stock pedal effort. It grabs pretty hard, very on off type but I am getting used to it. It can handle tons of power with ease.
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2.8 KB, all the supporting mods. 694 hp / 674 tq on corn and 611 hp/ 602 tq on 93

Last edited by 03' whitesnake; 07-30-2014 at 08:28 PM.
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Old 07-30-2014, 09:41 PM   #8
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Yea dc mentioned the spec 3+ too. I just took a look on lethal and it looks like a pretty good deal for the 800rwtq rating. Also not too stiff, so thats a plus.

Did you do the 26 spline shaft yourself, if so how was it? I want to do it myself but after doing the diff last year in my previous mustang Im not looking forward to dedicating hours of time cuddling up with my dial indicator if I dont have to

also that harness you made looks pretty much stock. I think Ill try to make something similar next time I have it up in the air. I might ask you some questions when I get to that point. Nice clean look while making it a hell of a lot easier to drop the tank. Stock harness sucked a ton for me because I wasn't sure how much gas was in it in the first place (picked the car up the day before dropping the tank and of course it had 7/8 of a tank).
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03 Cobra - Red Fire- 38k
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Old 07-31-2014, 05:31 AM   #9
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I actually did the input shaft for him. It takes about an hour on the bench if everything goes smoothly. We also did a new billet steel tob sleeve at the same time, which I highly suggest.
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1967 Ford Mustang
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Vortech SQ trim, E-303 Cam, Genuine Viper T56 Transmission, 9" Rear, Ridetech PRO Airride Suspension
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Old 07-31-2014, 09:23 AM   #10
03' whitesnake
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Yup, Dave did the input shaft for me. Its actually pretty easy to do. I'm glad he knew what he was doing.
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2.8 KB, all the supporting mods. 694 hp / 674 tq on corn and 611 hp/ 602 tq on 93
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:25 AM   #11
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Okay, sounds to me like its something i should do while replacing the clutch. Thanks for the advise guys.

Have to figure out the pulley-system squeak later today (think its a misalignment between tensioner and crank pulleys)
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Old 07-31-2014, 07:49 PM   #12
03' whitesnake
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The squeak could be a glazed belt. Gates belts are notorious for squeaking. I had 2 go bad after 1k miles. I now run Gatorback belts with zero issues. I get them at rockauto.com.

Use this chart to determine p/n for your length and 8 rib. Type that number in on RA and you will find it the cheapest around.

http://www.goodyearep.com/productsdetail.aspx?id=3128
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2.8 KB, all the supporting mods. 694 hp / 674 tq on corn and 611 hp/ 602 tq on 93
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Old 08-01-2014, 08:37 AM   #13
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I did the "water test" on the ribbed side of the belt and the squeak disappeared. Also if I try to bend the tensioner bracket towards the block slightly the squeak also goes away. I took the belt off and inspected it and it looked damn good (previous owner claimed he changed it 1000 miles ago although it is a gates). 2 of the idler pulleys have a little play which I think is marginally okay. Ill have to look into it after work today.

How quick is the rockauto shipping? it is in fact an 8rib system
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Old 08-01-2014, 08:56 AM   #14
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Try to pull the belt off and give it a good scrubbing with a stiff brush and original dawn dish soap and water in a bucket.
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1967 Ford Mustang
331 Cubic Inch Small Block
536 RWHP - 524 Ft. LBs
Vortech SQ trim, E-303 Cam, Genuine Viper T56 Transmission, 9" Rear, Ridetech PRO Airride Suspension
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Old 08-01-2014, 10:30 AM   #15
03' whitesnake
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RA ships really fast. 2 or 3 days.

What size belt are you running? I have a brand new 81" belt you can try if it fits. I would bet It's the belt causing your squeak.
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